Got to Bikaner yesterday after the hottest bus ride ever. Imagine sitting in a small box with 20 hairdryers continuously aimed at you, mostly on a low setting but on occasion cranking up to high, for 7 hours straight. What a relief to finally get off the bus, driven by unhappy mad man who must have been a terrible driver judging by the other females on the bus giving him what for, and the motorcyclist and autorickshaw drivers pulling up to his window after he tried squishing them to get more room. I guess I don't blame him, it is a crap job with crap pay, but still, killing people isn't the way to go either.
Checked into a clean hotel, showered up and spent the evening wandering around booking onward bus tickets and getting goosed by 7 year old boys who got THIS CLOSE to having their ears boxed. Got up early this morning to go to the rat temple. I'll say this, it wasn't as big a deal as I thought, 2000-4000 rats in one place at one time. And when they run across your feet, because that is what they do, they don't stop and they move pretty quickly so you barely even notice it. It was a temple however, which meant removing shoes, which also meant I have never wanted to clean my feet so badly afterwards.
The rest of Bikaner was a nice surprise considering I was only checking in for the rats. Spent the rest of the day at a beautiful fort around the corner from the hotel, and then headed off to Asia's only camel breeding farm where I saw 150 camels coming in from the fields for feeding time. It's not mating season right now but my guide showed me a video of two camels getting down. While my neighbours upstairs are loud, these camels beat them hands down, although I suppose if the apartment folk weighed 750 kg each they might be that loud as well. Not attractive but highly entertaining.
I'll catch the 9pm bus to Delhi tonight, the last of my long-haul journeys before two long flights back to Canada starting Tuesday night. It's been a great trip and surprisingly I have not been annoyed by any of it. Well, that's not entirely true. Salman Rushdie's 'Midnight's Children' spoiled the 6 hours I tried reading it before I finally gave up in misery. What a grind, like everything needs a symbol, and then repeat that symbol OVER and OVER and OVER. This is the written tradition, Mr. Rushdie, not the oral, we don't need things retold TEN TIMES to get the point.
Apart from that, it's been great. Will probably need another two years to recharge before doing something like this again, I do love my creature comforts. Thanks to everyone who checked in and dropped lines along the way.
That's all, she wrote...
May 24, 2009
May 22, 2009
I'm In Heaven
Heaven = airconditioning, TV, soft bed, and clean bathroom
After the grossness of Hotel Maria in Kolkata and getting Delhi Belly there and having to spend way too much time in that disgusting place, I am now in the most beautiful place on earth. And it's pretty swank by western standards as well, all this for $15/night.
I totally princessed out for this part of the journey, flying from Kolkata to Jaipur in 2 hours instead of a train ride of about 32. This hotel was listed under budget, still costs more than anywhere else I've stayed but what a difference it makes to a traveler's psyche, especially one who lay in state for most of yesterday because she dared to eat the chowmein at the street stand. I knew as soon as I did it that my illness-free run was over and the runs were beginning. It's always a weight-loss opportunity though, so no complaints.
Still love Kolkata and found even more things to like about it. There's no way I can accurately describe the feeling of the city, but for all the people and traffic and beggars and size, it's remarkably laid-back and easy going. The people seem happier there - maybe I'm just imagining that - but it might have something to do with all the wonderful green space. I walked to the Victoria Memorial through a field inhabited by herds of goats, cricket players, horses, trees and green grass everywhere. It's one of the largest city parks in the world.
The highlight had to have been my sunset walk over the Howrah Bridge, the largest cantilever bridge in the world. Packed packed packed with pedestrians on either side sandwiching in about 8 lanes of solid traffic. As I walked over the river, I noticed ferries running back and forth between the banks, so I made my way down to a stand and got a ticket to who knows where. It happened to be close enough to the giant park again, so I was able to stroll leisurely back to my dungeon.
James and I found a great Swiss patisserie, "Flurys", and had the most amazing almond macaroon and rumball. Top notch bakery and still cheap by anybody's standards. But I ended up eating most of my meals at the Blue Sky cafe where the waiter flirted with everybody and gave great service. That is until I tried the street stand and then there was to be no more eating for about 36 hours afterwards.
The difference between outside the airport and inside was night and day. I grabbed a cab to the airport and asked my cabbie tons of questions on the drive over. He rents his cab, has no home, sleeps in the backseat when no one else is parked in there. All the cabbies in the neighbourhood I was in were like this, poor, skinny, and rotten teeth from chewing paan all day. Then I get to the airport where the middle class people are. They queue up, they have nice clothes and all their teeth, and a large percentage of them are overweight. The airport was one of the more efficient ones I've been in, but maybe it was just the sheer luxury of it all. And the best part, I didn't have to wrestle anyone for my seat.
Tomorrow the luxury ends when I have to take a local bus to Bikaner, a 7 1/2 hour ride without a/c in the desert. Speaking of desert, a sand storm has swept in tonight and during the ride back from the Monkey Temple (yes that's monkey temple #2, 2000 monkeys milling about waiting for peanuts to be thrown at them) a brown haze descended on the city. Reminds me of when I was living in Damascus and I'm glad I don't have to clean up after it.
That's it from Jaipur and probably it til I get back to Delhi for my last day there. Bring on the rats...
After the grossness of Hotel Maria in Kolkata and getting Delhi Belly there and having to spend way too much time in that disgusting place, I am now in the most beautiful place on earth. And it's pretty swank by western standards as well, all this for $15/night.
I totally princessed out for this part of the journey, flying from Kolkata to Jaipur in 2 hours instead of a train ride of about 32. This hotel was listed under budget, still costs more than anywhere else I've stayed but what a difference it makes to a traveler's psyche, especially one who lay in state for most of yesterday because she dared to eat the chowmein at the street stand. I knew as soon as I did it that my illness-free run was over and the runs were beginning. It's always a weight-loss opportunity though, so no complaints.
Still love Kolkata and found even more things to like about it. There's no way I can accurately describe the feeling of the city, but for all the people and traffic and beggars and size, it's remarkably laid-back and easy going. The people seem happier there - maybe I'm just imagining that - but it might have something to do with all the wonderful green space. I walked to the Victoria Memorial through a field inhabited by herds of goats, cricket players, horses, trees and green grass everywhere. It's one of the largest city parks in the world.
The highlight had to have been my sunset walk over the Howrah Bridge, the largest cantilever bridge in the world. Packed packed packed with pedestrians on either side sandwiching in about 8 lanes of solid traffic. As I walked over the river, I noticed ferries running back and forth between the banks, so I made my way down to a stand and got a ticket to who knows where. It happened to be close enough to the giant park again, so I was able to stroll leisurely back to my dungeon.
James and I found a great Swiss patisserie, "Flurys", and had the most amazing almond macaroon and rumball. Top notch bakery and still cheap by anybody's standards. But I ended up eating most of my meals at the Blue Sky cafe where the waiter flirted with everybody and gave great service. That is until I tried the street stand and then there was to be no more eating for about 36 hours afterwards.
The difference between outside the airport and inside was night and day. I grabbed a cab to the airport and asked my cabbie tons of questions on the drive over. He rents his cab, has no home, sleeps in the backseat when no one else is parked in there. All the cabbies in the neighbourhood I was in were like this, poor, skinny, and rotten teeth from chewing paan all day. Then I get to the airport where the middle class people are. They queue up, they have nice clothes and all their teeth, and a large percentage of them are overweight. The airport was one of the more efficient ones I've been in, but maybe it was just the sheer luxury of it all. And the best part, I didn't have to wrestle anyone for my seat.
Tomorrow the luxury ends when I have to take a local bus to Bikaner, a 7 1/2 hour ride without a/c in the desert. Speaking of desert, a sand storm has swept in tonight and during the ride back from the Monkey Temple (yes that's monkey temple #2, 2000 monkeys milling about waiting for peanuts to be thrown at them) a brown haze descended on the city. Reminds me of when I was living in Damascus and I'm glad I don't have to clean up after it.
That's it from Jaipur and probably it til I get back to Delhi for my last day there. Bring on the rats...
May 20, 2009
Poverty
You can't really write about India without writing about the poverty. I haven't written anything so far, not because I don't see it, but because I'm trying to process it all.
In the Paharganj in Delhi where I first stayed, it's so visible it's painful. I call a lot of the kids 'spiders' because of the way they move around on their misshapen limbs, or what's left of them. Everywhere you go there little kids accost you with hands outstretched asking for food. "Please madam, one rupee". In Varanasi there were many as well but I don't think I noticed them as much, possibly because when I was out I was usually in a rickshaw or down on the ghats. Barely any in Darjeeling, except for one man I noticed on more than one occasion. He was probably somewhere in his forties, bent and crooked legs, missing his left arm. He was fairly quiet as far as the begging goes, but I noticed him especially because of his turqoise eyes, the exact same colour as Lake Louise in the Rockies. I must have passed him two times up on the ridge towards the zoo and back, but the last day I was shoveling some Dairy Milk into my mouth when I passed him again with his hand outstretched. It felt absolutely cruel to walk by someone in need while I have more than he could ever want, so I walked back and gave him the rest of my chocolate to be rewarded with the most beautiful smile. You wish you could do more, but what?
Down here in Kolkata it's bad once again. Yesterday I passed a boy who might have had polio, his legs twisted out at weird angles behind him while he scooted past on his arms. Another young woman lying in the gutter dragging her useless legs behind her. Then in the evening I saw a man who had no legs below his knees. We passed him on the way to the book store as he shuffled along on his arms, trying to keep his scarf from falling down and getting in his way. Later on we passed him again, sitting with his back to a bank building, and when he saw me he reached out both hands pleading for money or food while his stumps wagged in the air. That one was the worst, and again, what can you do?
Then there are the ones that make me chuckle for the sheer weirdness of it all. Just around the corner from the hotel there is a woman who I don't think can walk at all. She's missing most of the teeth on the right side of her mouth and the ones on the left are huge and fit poorly in her mouth. She reminds me of those mechanical witches at halloween or santas at Christmas, the ones that stand there and wave back and forth. She's the same, she lies on her left side and with her right hand joins her fingers lightly together at the tips and bring them towards her mouth and then back about 6 inches before doing it all over again, again and again in rhythm. The one time I didn't see her doing that was when it looked like her hand had stalled in front of her mouth while her left hand tapped her begging dish, almost like her system had shorted out.
It's hard to see this and I understand why people don't want to know about it. At least in Vancouver most of the worst of the worse is contained in the East Side so if you don't want to see it you just avoid the neighbourhood. But here it's everywhere and it doesn't take long to start blocking it out in one way or another. Once in awhile it breaks through again and you're overcome with a feeling of total hopelessness. A bunch of us were discussing it one night, we can't fix what the country's government won't fix. I guess the best you can do is behave responsibly in your own country and try to right the wrongs there. It's frustrating and it's sad. How on earth could you ever repair something like this?
In the Paharganj in Delhi where I first stayed, it's so visible it's painful. I call a lot of the kids 'spiders' because of the way they move around on their misshapen limbs, or what's left of them. Everywhere you go there little kids accost you with hands outstretched asking for food. "Please madam, one rupee". In Varanasi there were many as well but I don't think I noticed them as much, possibly because when I was out I was usually in a rickshaw or down on the ghats. Barely any in Darjeeling, except for one man I noticed on more than one occasion. He was probably somewhere in his forties, bent and crooked legs, missing his left arm. He was fairly quiet as far as the begging goes, but I noticed him especially because of his turqoise eyes, the exact same colour as Lake Louise in the Rockies. I must have passed him two times up on the ridge towards the zoo and back, but the last day I was shoveling some Dairy Milk into my mouth when I passed him again with his hand outstretched. It felt absolutely cruel to walk by someone in need while I have more than he could ever want, so I walked back and gave him the rest of my chocolate to be rewarded with the most beautiful smile. You wish you could do more, but what?
Down here in Kolkata it's bad once again. Yesterday I passed a boy who might have had polio, his legs twisted out at weird angles behind him while he scooted past on his arms. Another young woman lying in the gutter dragging her useless legs behind her. Then in the evening I saw a man who had no legs below his knees. We passed him on the way to the book store as he shuffled along on his arms, trying to keep his scarf from falling down and getting in his way. Later on we passed him again, sitting with his back to a bank building, and when he saw me he reached out both hands pleading for money or food while his stumps wagged in the air. That one was the worst, and again, what can you do?
Then there are the ones that make me chuckle for the sheer weirdness of it all. Just around the corner from the hotel there is a woman who I don't think can walk at all. She's missing most of the teeth on the right side of her mouth and the ones on the left are huge and fit poorly in her mouth. She reminds me of those mechanical witches at halloween or santas at Christmas, the ones that stand there and wave back and forth. She's the same, she lies on her left side and with her right hand joins her fingers lightly together at the tips and bring them towards her mouth and then back about 6 inches before doing it all over again, again and again in rhythm. The one time I didn't see her doing that was when it looked like her hand had stalled in front of her mouth while her left hand tapped her begging dish, almost like her system had shorted out.
It's hard to see this and I understand why people don't want to know about it. At least in Vancouver most of the worst of the worse is contained in the East Side so if you don't want to see it you just avoid the neighbourhood. But here it's everywhere and it doesn't take long to start blocking it out in one way or another. Once in awhile it breaks through again and you're overcome with a feeling of total hopelessness. A bunch of us were discussing it one night, we can't fix what the country's government won't fix. I guess the best you can do is behave responsibly in your own country and try to right the wrongs there. It's frustrating and it's sad. How on earth could you ever repair something like this?
May 19, 2009
Kolkata - First Impressions
We arrived this morning at the Sealdah train station just after 7am and the first thing we saw leaving the station - hundreds of yellow ambassador taxis. Even that early in the morning the city is moving; taxis, human rickshaws, beggars, fruit & vegetables sellers, and everything else.
We left Darjeeling at about 3pm yesterday for another hair-raising trip back down the mountain this time. Views were spectacular and we could feel the temperature rising as we descended. We stopped for about 15 minutes when we reached the plains and the most beautiful scents were coming out of the bamboo forest. We had one slight traffic delay when the driver pulled over so we could look at the wild elephant in the forest. Then all of a sudden all the jeeps behind us started backing up super fast, and we did the same. Apparently the elephant was about to cross the road (no joke intended) and no one likes to be in the way in case it charges. Two minutes later it was all clear and when we started moving again we could see it moving off on the other side of the road. I think I might have a better understanding now of why the German tourists get all excited about black bears on the sides of the highways.
Ten hour train ride was uneventful if it rocked a little. This morning I started talking to the gentleman on the bunk across from me and he turned out to be the director of the Darjeeling zoo, or "joo" as they say here since there is no sound for "z". At first I was wondering what he meant by "Did you visit the joo in Darjeeling?" Ummmmm, yes? Then Yes! when I figured out it was an honest question and not a semitic one.
Checked into the hotel, more like a prison block actually, complete with bars on the windows. But it has a shower and you can't ask for much more for $5/night. After I showered I went for a longish walk to the Victoria Memorial which was well worth the price of admission, 15 times the local price for foreign nationals. And as it was hot hot hot and sunny sunny, my farmer's tan is now gone and replaced with a purse strap across my back tan. Tomorrow I'm off to the Kali temple since it sounds rather grotesque and interesting, and apparently they sacrifice goats in the morning so we may just try to catch that. Don't know what else I'll do but there is tons to see and I think I love this city so there won't be any boredom for the next three days.
We left Darjeeling at about 3pm yesterday for another hair-raising trip back down the mountain this time. Views were spectacular and we could feel the temperature rising as we descended. We stopped for about 15 minutes when we reached the plains and the most beautiful scents were coming out of the bamboo forest. We had one slight traffic delay when the driver pulled over so we could look at the wild elephant in the forest. Then all of a sudden all the jeeps behind us started backing up super fast, and we did the same. Apparently the elephant was about to cross the road (no joke intended) and no one likes to be in the way in case it charges. Two minutes later it was all clear and when we started moving again we could see it moving off on the other side of the road. I think I might have a better understanding now of why the German tourists get all excited about black bears on the sides of the highways.
Ten hour train ride was uneventful if it rocked a little. This morning I started talking to the gentleman on the bunk across from me and he turned out to be the director of the Darjeeling zoo, or "joo" as they say here since there is no sound for "z". At first I was wondering what he meant by "Did you visit the joo in Darjeeling?" Ummmmm, yes? Then Yes! when I figured out it was an honest question and not a semitic one.
Checked into the hotel, more like a prison block actually, complete with bars on the windows. But it has a shower and you can't ask for much more for $5/night. After I showered I went for a longish walk to the Victoria Memorial which was well worth the price of admission, 15 times the local price for foreign nationals. And as it was hot hot hot and sunny sunny, my farmer's tan is now gone and replaced with a purse strap across my back tan. Tomorrow I'm off to the Kali temple since it sounds rather grotesque and interesting, and apparently they sacrifice goats in the morning so we may just try to catch that. Don't know what else I'll do but there is tons to see and I think I love this city so there won't be any boredom for the next three days.
May 17, 2009
Super Fine Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe One
That is the name of the tea we tried yesterday. Orange Pekoe is easier. Today was the last full day up on the Darjeeling stair master. After 4 1/2 days I now have calves of thunder. Apparently it's not uncommon to get charlie horses in the middle of the night and last night I woke up a few times needing to pop extra strength advil to help stop the burning. All of us have also developed a strange scratchy throat with cold-like symptoms. I think it's from the altitude and breathing in jeep fumes through hairless nasal passages.
It's a good time to leave, not because it's bad but because of the following:
1. always leave on a high. Darjeeling is awesome - the time here was worth every minute of the journey up.
2. saw one of the girls I met puking in a gutter today. The shopkeeper who's store was on the gutter came out to say "Vomiting is bad, it's not healthy." Couldn't tell if he felt sorry for her or was telling her that puking in public is unhygenic. She could have used some of my VomitStop tablets. I like that they call it what it is here, what does Gravol tell you it does? Whenever you see the white people puking in public it's time to move on.
3. feels like I'm cheating my trip up here. It's not conventional India, it's rather modern and not nearly as dirty or hot as down below. It's great but I need the grit again.
4. really looking forward to Kolkata now that I've had my break. Want to see the masses of people again and check out the sites down there.
5. I have a farmer's tan from wearing t-shirts. Those have never been attractive, need to even it out for a new look.
The one sad thing about leaving tomorrow is that me and my two little brothers will be separated. The guys will head north to Sikkim and then onto Nepal from there. They've been great fun to travel with, very entertaining and they certainly made the journey up here almost bearable. From here to Kolkata I'll be with James which is nice since he's been there before so I won't feel so totally out of it.
One more quick walk/hike tomorrow to find some monasteries and then sucking back the rest of my VomitStops for the 3 hour jeep ride back down to the plains to catch the train.
That's it from Darjeeling, one of the finest places on the planet.
It's a good time to leave, not because it's bad but because of the following:
1. always leave on a high. Darjeeling is awesome - the time here was worth every minute of the journey up.
2. saw one of the girls I met puking in a gutter today. The shopkeeper who's store was on the gutter came out to say "Vomiting is bad, it's not healthy." Couldn't tell if he felt sorry for her or was telling her that puking in public is unhygenic. She could have used some of my VomitStop tablets. I like that they call it what it is here, what does Gravol tell you it does? Whenever you see the white people puking in public it's time to move on.
3. feels like I'm cheating my trip up here. It's not conventional India, it's rather modern and not nearly as dirty or hot as down below. It's great but I need the grit again.
4. really looking forward to Kolkata now that I've had my break. Want to see the masses of people again and check out the sites down there.
5. I have a farmer's tan from wearing t-shirts. Those have never been attractive, need to even it out for a new look.
The one sad thing about leaving tomorrow is that me and my two little brothers will be separated. The guys will head north to Sikkim and then onto Nepal from there. They've been great fun to travel with, very entertaining and they certainly made the journey up here almost bearable. From here to Kolkata I'll be with James which is nice since he's been there before so I won't feel so totally out of it.
One more quick walk/hike tomorrow to find some monasteries and then sucking back the rest of my VomitStops for the 3 hour jeep ride back down to the plains to catch the train.
That's it from Darjeeling, one of the finest places on the planet.
May 16, 2009
Lions & Tigers & Bears, Oh My!
So we didn't see any lions, but at the Darjeeling zoo yesterday we did get face-to-face with snow leopards, cloud leopards, a siberian tiger, red pandas, yaks, tibetan wolves, and the himalayan black bear. It's a pretty decent zoo and they seem to have done a good job of protecting and repopulating some endangered species. The walk to the zoo was a pleasant 20 minute stroll out of the main town centre. The Himalayan Mountaineering museum was included in the entrance so we also managed to check out the salutes to the pioneers of the big climbs out this way. Tenzing Norgay is buried a short way away and that is pretty cool.
Today I headed up to observatory hill in the morning to see if I could see Kanchenjunga from the lookout, I think I saw it but not sure as I have no idea what it looks like. That used to be considered the tallest peak in the Himalayas until one day someone saw Everest peaking out from behind. Afterwards I met up with the guys again and another British fellow we met a few days ago to go for an afternoon trek to the Happy Valley Tea Plantation for a tea demonstration. I don't drink tea and I find the cult following kind of weird, but the tea we got to sample was pretty impressive. With the workers being paid about 50 rupees a day, about $1USD, it makes you appreciate what you're drinking. Another 30 minute walk after that to the Botanical Gardens where we saw a wisteria planted in 1878. It's aged well and I'm hoping the pictures I snapped do justice to the massiveness of this thing.
Just picked up my beautiful new sari, gorgeous handwork and embroidery all along, got the top tailored so I think once I'm cleaned up and actually find something to wear it to it'll look pretty good.
Today was the counting of the election votes. Darjeeling is a BJP stronghold since the BJP promised it could separate. Congress won by what I guess is a landslide but the BJP did win a seat here in Darjeeling. There's a big military presence here tonight, men in green patrolling the streets and there's a chance things will get a little hairy before the night is out but at this point all is calm. There were firecrackers being set off in the streets this afternoon but that seems to be the extent of it. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
Today I headed up to observatory hill in the morning to see if I could see Kanchenjunga from the lookout, I think I saw it but not sure as I have no idea what it looks like. That used to be considered the tallest peak in the Himalayas until one day someone saw Everest peaking out from behind. Afterwards I met up with the guys again and another British fellow we met a few days ago to go for an afternoon trek to the Happy Valley Tea Plantation for a tea demonstration. I don't drink tea and I find the cult following kind of weird, but the tea we got to sample was pretty impressive. With the workers being paid about 50 rupees a day, about $1USD, it makes you appreciate what you're drinking. Another 30 minute walk after that to the Botanical Gardens where we saw a wisteria planted in 1878. It's aged well and I'm hoping the pictures I snapped do justice to the massiveness of this thing.
Just picked up my beautiful new sari, gorgeous handwork and embroidery all along, got the top tailored so I think once I'm cleaned up and actually find something to wear it to it'll look pretty good.
Today was the counting of the election votes. Darjeeling is a BJP stronghold since the BJP promised it could separate. Congress won by what I guess is a landslide but the BJP did win a seat here in Darjeeling. There's a big military presence here tonight, men in green patrolling the streets and there's a chance things will get a little hairy before the night is out but at this point all is calm. There were firecrackers being set off in the streets this afternoon but that seems to be the extent of it. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
May 13, 2009
Darjeeling
This is heaven on earth. Lush beautiful land all around, the heavy scent of tea thick in the air. It's about 30 degrees cooler here than Varanasi and beggars don't seem to exist. Everyone is so nice, very few seem to be on the take.
We found our hotel after searching for about a 1/2 hour. This is a hill town which means everything is up or down, nothing straight across, and lugging a backpack around is a bit rough. I felt better though when the young boys who attached themselves to us temporarily were huffing and puffing way more than me and they were only carrying jackets.
The hotel is pretty simple, no running water so everything is done by bucket. This morning when I woke up the owner already had water boiling on the stove so I was able to take a hot bucket shower. It sounds primitive but when you're washing the pollution and a day's worth of gross travel out of your hair, it's absolute bliss. It's not just the hotel that does this, it seems to be much of Darjeeling. Walked to the outer deck to see the view, breathtaking with the mountains all around, flags flying everywhere in the city.
The views are spectacular and tomorrow morning I'll be up at 4am to catch the sunrise and a view of the mountains. I'm fairly certain this place will be the highlight of the trip.
We found our hotel after searching for about a 1/2 hour. This is a hill town which means everything is up or down, nothing straight across, and lugging a backpack around is a bit rough. I felt better though when the young boys who attached themselves to us temporarily were huffing and puffing way more than me and they were only carrying jackets.
The hotel is pretty simple, no running water so everything is done by bucket. This morning when I woke up the owner already had water boiling on the stove so I was able to take a hot bucket shower. It sounds primitive but when you're washing the pollution and a day's worth of gross travel out of your hair, it's absolute bliss. It's not just the hotel that does this, it seems to be much of Darjeeling. Walked to the outer deck to see the view, breathtaking with the mountains all around, flags flying everywhere in the city.
The views are spectacular and tomorrow morning I'll be up at 4am to catch the sunrise and a view of the mountains. I'm fairly certain this place will be the highlight of the trip.
The Not So Nice Train Ride
Apparently I booked my first train ride for princess package. Not so this time, I booked on the cheap sleeper car to save money thinking it would be ok after everyone I talked to who rode it. What train did they ride????? Here's the journey in time blocks:
7:20pm leave hotel by autorickshaw for 1 hour 10 minute ride to train station. a vehicle that fits 12 nationals barely fits 3 north americans comfortably. driver nice, roads not.
10pm train leaves station 1/2 hour late. this is good considering this particular train is usually 5-6 hours late. we get on our car after running up and down the length of the platform (looooong), finally find ours marked in chalk, and find a family of 6 sleeping on our beds. i feel like a cheap white person until dave loses it and manages to get all 6 of them out with no hassle.
1am some loud obnoxious person is walking through our car, filled with maybe 200 people, clapping and yelling. it's a transvestite, might be pretty but very annoying. when she gets to my bed she fully wakes me with a slap to my head. i slap her back, she slaps me back, one more whack to her head and she goes away.
on the bunk below me dave is trying to sleep despite the family of three who are snuggling up next to his bum. he beats them off. andrew is in the bunk above and apparently unaware of the chaos below.
6am the chai, food, watch, electric-wallahs have arrived and go up and down the car repeatedly yelling their respective ware "CHAI CHAI CHAI CHAI" "PAKORA PAKORA PAKORA"
8am can't sleep anymore, a teeny tiny family of 10 jams into our area. the kids heads are shaved, i think it's because of head lice judging by how the cute little boy keeps picking at imaginary bugs on his head, placing them in his palm and smashing them with a satisfied "pow".
9am we make friends with the nice 15 year old sleeping across from us. two others shared his bunk unbeknownst to him.
the rest of the time we try to sleep, look out the windows, avoid the bathroom which can no longer be done due to 3 litres of water the day before. a squat toilet on a moving train is interesting. i'm tired and cranky until i'm walking back to my bunk when i discover you can hang out the side of the train and catch the views from there. all of a sudden traveling is fun again.
4pm have finally arrived at next major point of departure and catch a jeep, $2 for a 3 hour hair raising ride into the mountains, through tea plantations up up up on those roads you hear about in the news when buses plunge hundreds of feet, killing all inside. it's the best part of the trip in my opinion
7:20pm arrive in Darjeeling and despite being tired and smelling overripe, I am 100% in love with this place.
7:20pm leave hotel by autorickshaw for 1 hour 10 minute ride to train station. a vehicle that fits 12 nationals barely fits 3 north americans comfortably. driver nice, roads not.
10pm train leaves station 1/2 hour late. this is good considering this particular train is usually 5-6 hours late. we get on our car after running up and down the length of the platform (looooong), finally find ours marked in chalk, and find a family of 6 sleeping on our beds. i feel like a cheap white person until dave loses it and manages to get all 6 of them out with no hassle.
1am some loud obnoxious person is walking through our car, filled with maybe 200 people, clapping and yelling. it's a transvestite, might be pretty but very annoying. when she gets to my bed she fully wakes me with a slap to my head. i slap her back, she slaps me back, one more whack to her head and she goes away.
on the bunk below me dave is trying to sleep despite the family of three who are snuggling up next to his bum. he beats them off. andrew is in the bunk above and apparently unaware of the chaos below.
6am the chai, food, watch, electric-wallahs have arrived and go up and down the car repeatedly yelling their respective ware "CHAI CHAI CHAI CHAI" "PAKORA PAKORA PAKORA"
8am can't sleep anymore, a teeny tiny family of 10 jams into our area. the kids heads are shaved, i think it's because of head lice judging by how the cute little boy keeps picking at imaginary bugs on his head, placing them in his palm and smashing them with a satisfied "pow".
9am we make friends with the nice 15 year old sleeping across from us. two others shared his bunk unbeknownst to him.
the rest of the time we try to sleep, look out the windows, avoid the bathroom which can no longer be done due to 3 litres of water the day before. a squat toilet on a moving train is interesting. i'm tired and cranky until i'm walking back to my bunk when i discover you can hang out the side of the train and catch the views from there. all of a sudden traveling is fun again.
4pm have finally arrived at next major point of departure and catch a jeep, $2 for a 3 hour hair raising ride into the mountains, through tea plantations up up up on those roads you hear about in the news when buses plunge hundreds of feet, killing all inside. it's the best part of the trip in my opinion
7:20pm arrive in Darjeeling and despite being tired and smelling overripe, I am 100% in love with this place.
May 12, 2009
Varanasi
It took 12 hours to get here by overnight train but the ride went fast and was very pleasant. This was my first time on an Indian train and I was expecting a lot less, at least some livestock in the cabins. No chickens although I was excited to hear a rooster until I realized it was the ring tone of someone's phone.
I ended up at a really nice guest house 30 seconds walk from the Ganges River and it's been an awesome stay for the past 2 1/2 days. Yesterday morning started with a 5:30am 2 hour boat ride on the Ganges to watch the morning rituals. It's a nice way to see what's happening since you can catch everything from that vantage point plus it means you can avoid the crush of humans on the ghats (banks) of the river. Lots of boats at that time filled predominantly with curious white people. Saw one energetic fellow yelling into his cell phone as people bathed in the river and people prayed to the gods.
Afterward I took a tour of five temples, something of a feat since I find temples as interesting as museums, ie., not at all. The monkey temple was cool though and I spent more time in the grounds watching the monkeys wrestle and bite each other. One was playing with what looked like some unfortunate woman's hair piece. He actually put it on his head and stroked it in that way that women do. Then another monkey came, ripped it off the other's head which resulted in a tug-of-war, tearing the hair in half. Everyone got some, everyone was happy. No cameras allowed so I couldn't get any pictures which was a shame because some of those shots would have made for great storytelling.
Then went to the Muslim quarter to a silk factory and ended up buying a bedspread, BRIGHT PINK. Yes oh yes it is lovely.
Got back to the hotel, met a great older couple who produced a bottle of Southern Comfort and loaded up the glasses. This was the way in which we wandered down to the ghats to watch the evening rituals, a little tipsy and very happy. Met the caretaker of a burning ghat so sat with him for a bit while he explained what was happening below. A family had just arrived with the body and was starting the ritual performance. The sun had gone down so when they lit the pyre it was beautiful in the evening light.
After that went to a classical Indian music concert and promptly fell asleep, bad form since there were only about 10 people there including the musicians. The tabla player woke me up with "MADAM, ONE MORE SONG!!" Afterwards he came to ask what I liked so of course I said he was very good, the result being that in my delirious state I was suckered into tabla lessons this afternoon. We'll see how that goes, I'm not doing any cooking classes so this may be a good substitute.
Tonight I get on the train for a 15 hour ride north to Darjeeling. I met two young guys from Montreal at the tourism booth in the train station once we arrived in Varanasi and we're all heading up at the same time so we'll go together.
No more sleep problems with sleeping pills in hand, G.I. is regular for the first time in two years, and have a rash on my stomach the exact size and shape of my money belt. All in all life is pretty sweet right now.
I ended up at a really nice guest house 30 seconds walk from the Ganges River and it's been an awesome stay for the past 2 1/2 days. Yesterday morning started with a 5:30am 2 hour boat ride on the Ganges to watch the morning rituals. It's a nice way to see what's happening since you can catch everything from that vantage point plus it means you can avoid the crush of humans on the ghats (banks) of the river. Lots of boats at that time filled predominantly with curious white people. Saw one energetic fellow yelling into his cell phone as people bathed in the river and people prayed to the gods.
Afterward I took a tour of five temples, something of a feat since I find temples as interesting as museums, ie., not at all. The monkey temple was cool though and I spent more time in the grounds watching the monkeys wrestle and bite each other. One was playing with what looked like some unfortunate woman's hair piece. He actually put it on his head and stroked it in that way that women do. Then another monkey came, ripped it off the other's head which resulted in a tug-of-war, tearing the hair in half. Everyone got some, everyone was happy. No cameras allowed so I couldn't get any pictures which was a shame because some of those shots would have made for great storytelling.
Then went to the Muslim quarter to a silk factory and ended up buying a bedspread, BRIGHT PINK. Yes oh yes it is lovely.
Got back to the hotel, met a great older couple who produced a bottle of Southern Comfort and loaded up the glasses. This was the way in which we wandered down to the ghats to watch the evening rituals, a little tipsy and very happy. Met the caretaker of a burning ghat so sat with him for a bit while he explained what was happening below. A family had just arrived with the body and was starting the ritual performance. The sun had gone down so when they lit the pyre it was beautiful in the evening light.
After that went to a classical Indian music concert and promptly fell asleep, bad form since there were only about 10 people there including the musicians. The tabla player woke me up with "MADAM, ONE MORE SONG!!" Afterwards he came to ask what I liked so of course I said he was very good, the result being that in my delirious state I was suckered into tabla lessons this afternoon. We'll see how that goes, I'm not doing any cooking classes so this may be a good substitute.
Tonight I get on the train for a 15 hour ride north to Darjeeling. I met two young guys from Montreal at the tourism booth in the train station once we arrived in Varanasi and we're all heading up at the same time so we'll go together.
No more sleep problems with sleeping pills in hand, G.I. is regular for the first time in two years, and have a rash on my stomach the exact size and shape of my money belt. All in all life is pretty sweet right now.
May 8, 2009
Welcome to Delhi
For the first time in 8 months I am finally warm. We exited the airport around 11pm last night into 35 degree weather, not too hot, just right. The flight was uneventful although all the airport employees were wearing masks, strange to see after only watching it on the news. The hotel sent me a pickup and I wasn't too sure I was going to get there after I jumped in the back seat and the front seat immediately fell off into my lap. But 5 minutes later everything was fixed and the taxi stopped stalling.
Everyone says India is overwhelming and takes a few days to get used to the craziness of it all, but last night the roads were pretty empty and the neighbourhood I'm staying in was quiet when we arrived. Apparently cows are banned from most of the city but I guess they didn't get the news here as there seems to be one cow for every two tourists. The traffic is the same as the Middle East which means you go when there's a gap in the vehicles and hustle before you get pegged. It's loud and dirty and it takes a bit of steel to not feel rotten for ignoring every person who wants to talk to you or not handing money to every street kid who sticks his hand in your face. So far I've had two tag-alongs, one guy who was quite nice but disappeared after a cop pulled him aside, and the other was a young girl whose face was badly scarred from burns.
I'm exhausted after two days of traveling to get here and maybe 6 hours sleep through all of it. Spent a few hours walking around after finishing my first order of business which was to fix my glasses which I sat on on the plane and broke. Within 20 minutes I'd found a shop and got new frames, can you do that at home? May leave for Varanasi tomorrow if I can pull myself together and brave the train station. I saw enough of Delhi last time and don't need to do more. Why does 40 degrees feel ok?
Everyone says India is overwhelming and takes a few days to get used to the craziness of it all, but last night the roads were pretty empty and the neighbourhood I'm staying in was quiet when we arrived. Apparently cows are banned from most of the city but I guess they didn't get the news here as there seems to be one cow for every two tourists. The traffic is the same as the Middle East which means you go when there's a gap in the vehicles and hustle before you get pegged. It's loud and dirty and it takes a bit of steel to not feel rotten for ignoring every person who wants to talk to you or not handing money to every street kid who sticks his hand in your face. So far I've had two tag-alongs, one guy who was quite nice but disappeared after a cop pulled him aside, and the other was a young girl whose face was badly scarred from burns.
I'm exhausted after two days of traveling to get here and maybe 6 hours sleep through all of it. Spent a few hours walking around after finishing my first order of business which was to fix my glasses which I sat on on the plane and broke. Within 20 minutes I'd found a shop and got new frames, can you do that at home? May leave for Varanasi tomorrow if I can pull myself together and brave the train station. I saw enough of Delhi last time and don't need to do more. Why does 40 degrees feel ok?
May 3, 2009
Off Again
It's been almost two years since I went off to travel the way I like which is usually to a place that looks completely unlike the one I grew up in and might be a little dirty. This time it's India for a quick three weeks. Unlike some tourists who pack it all in and see everything there is to see I've opted to check out a few cities and sites and take my time getting from one place to the next. Partly because I like to get the feeling of a place rather than just the flavour, but mostly because I'm tired of having a too-packed schedule which doesn't allow for any deviation from the intended path. I have no itinerary other than landing in Delhi with two nights booked at a budget hotel sans a/c. After that it's up to whatever the train/bus schedules permit.
Last time I was there in 2002 I was finishing up my overland trip and we were getting around by the truck we'd traveled in from Turkey. I was always with Jim and Arnout while we explored new places so unlike other travelers' stories, I got around fairly easily and was never harassed by men. That will probably be different this time as I'm off solo and don't have a personal vehicle at my disposal. I've been getting mentally prepped for this, checking out what traveling sites have to say and by far the biggest thing to be concerned about is how many times the locals try to take the tourists for a ride on the swindle system. For example, every guide book says when you've booked your hotel make sure you tell your taxi/rickshaw driver where you're going and don't let him convince you the hotel's been burnt down or it's full or that it doesn't exist or that there's a riot in the neighbourhood and it's unsafe.
When I was there before I had booked a plane ticket at a shop in one neighbourhood and had to back a week later to pick it up. I asked the first rickshaw driver how much the trip would be and he quoted me 10 times the price, adding "There's a riot in that neighbourhood today." Remembering what I'd learned from what everyone warned me about, I went to the next rickshaw driver who charged the same price and used the same excuse. By the third driver I was getting ticked off and told him not to rip me off. He said he'd take me up to the neighbourhood but not into it as it was unsafe. When we got there, there actually was a riot in progress and it did look a little messy.
Whatever happens I'm looking forward to it all and will update my blog whenever I get the chance. As a wise friend did a few years ago, I'll use the correspondence to gauge my tolerance and happiness levels inspired by my travels. It's not the easiest country to travel in and it tests the patience of the most saintly person, but I'm sure there will be many more highs than lows.
First stop is Amsterdam for 20 hours and dinner with friends, and then it's off to Delhi and the 45 degree heat that awaits...
Last time I was there in 2002 I was finishing up my overland trip and we were getting around by the truck we'd traveled in from Turkey. I was always with Jim and Arnout while we explored new places so unlike other travelers' stories, I got around fairly easily and was never harassed by men. That will probably be different this time as I'm off solo and don't have a personal vehicle at my disposal. I've been getting mentally prepped for this, checking out what traveling sites have to say and by far the biggest thing to be concerned about is how many times the locals try to take the tourists for a ride on the swindle system. For example, every guide book says when you've booked your hotel make sure you tell your taxi/rickshaw driver where you're going and don't let him convince you the hotel's been burnt down or it's full or that it doesn't exist or that there's a riot in the neighbourhood and it's unsafe.
When I was there before I had booked a plane ticket at a shop in one neighbourhood and had to back a week later to pick it up. I asked the first rickshaw driver how much the trip would be and he quoted me 10 times the price, adding "There's a riot in that neighbourhood today." Remembering what I'd learned from what everyone warned me about, I went to the next rickshaw driver who charged the same price and used the same excuse. By the third driver I was getting ticked off and told him not to rip me off. He said he'd take me up to the neighbourhood but not into it as it was unsafe. When we got there, there actually was a riot in progress and it did look a little messy.
Whatever happens I'm looking forward to it all and will update my blog whenever I get the chance. As a wise friend did a few years ago, I'll use the correspondence to gauge my tolerance and happiness levels inspired by my travels. It's not the easiest country to travel in and it tests the patience of the most saintly person, but I'm sure there will be many more highs than lows.
First stop is Amsterdam for 20 hours and dinner with friends, and then it's off to Delhi and the 45 degree heat that awaits...
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